Up Deeside by bus: Banchory to Ballater

Royal Deeside is often treated as driving country, but the lower and middle valley is easy to explore without a car. Regular buses run west from Aberdeen along the main road beside the river, which means you can build a relaxed day around two villages and a riverside walk, and be back in the city for dinner.

Morning: Banchory

Take an early bus from the city centre to Banchory, the largest town on lower Deeside. The journey follows the river for much of the way, past farmland and woods. In Banchory, walk down to the river, where the Water of Feugh joins the Dee just south of the town; when the river is running high in autumn, salmon are sometimes seen leaping at the Bridge of Feugh. The town has cafés and bakeries for a mid-morning stop.

If you are interested in castles, Crathes Castle lies a short distance east of Banchory, and its walled gardens are among the most admired in Scotland. Check its opening arrangements before you go, as timings vary by season.

Midday: on to Ballater

From Banchory, continue west by bus to Ballater. The valley narrows and the hills close in as you enter the Cairngorms National Park. Ballater is a neat Victorian village of granite buildings arranged around a green, with independent shops, places to eat and easy walks from the centre.

For a short walk, follow the river path from the bridge, or climb a little way into the woods above the village for views up the valley. Walkers with more time often head out to Glen Muick, but that needs either a car or a taxi, so keep it for another day if you are relying on buses.

Using the Deeside Way

The Deeside Way follows the line of the old railway that once carried passengers up the valley. Sections of it make an easy, level walk between villages, and it is also popular with cyclists. If you want to stretch your legs, walk part of it and pick up the bus again further along — just check the timetable first so you know when the next service is due.

Getting back

Buses return along the valley to Aberdeen through the afternoon and evening. Timetables change, particularly on Sundays and outside summer, so check current times with the operator before setting out and note the last bus back.

Tips for the day

• Bring layers — Ballater can be noticeably cooler than the coast.
• Download a map before you go; phone signal can be patchy beyond Aboyne.
• If you would like more time in the valley, read our Royal Deeside page for ideas on staying a night.